1. 2000 Toyota Camry Timing Marks

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air condition light was blinking. Manual said to turn off, then on again. If light continued
to blink then go to dealership. next thing we know is the skid light comes on, the oil light,
the check engine light, a funny sound in engine, and a burning smell. Dealership says
timing chain, but it was drivable.... I thought the car completely stopped when a timing
chain was busted.

If it breaks it will not run. But if it jumps time or a tensioner comes loose or breaks there is a good chance it will still run. But I do not advise driving it with what you have described.

Dealer is full of dung. Timing chain or timing belt, call it what you want, when it breaks the engine stops, usually for good. Toyota dealers are the biggest bunch of crooks. Move on or drive on to an independent shop, and have it looked at, and probably fixed. Good Luck!

2000 Toyota Camry Timing Marks Pdf Editor. 3/6/2018 0 Comments This link used to be in the old forum. I know its a popular topic so I figured that I'd post the.

No don't think I could drive it far, but we were at the exit the dealership was on. So only drove a few blocks. The dealer still has it. They are going to call me Monday. The estimated cost of repair was over $3,000. They said the timing chain caused the oil gasket to blow and leak oil. I just don't want to be charged for the wrong things. I'm very close to paying this car off and was looking forward to driving for a while with no payments. I bought a Toyota because it was supposed to be a long lasting vehicle. I hope I'm not wrong. I don't want to get a new car now, or start paying crazy repair charges. They told me the 3,000 didn't even cover the labor. That was just parts.

That sounds pretty high for just a timing chain replacement parts unless there was a good bit more damage done with it loosely flopping around in there. Personally I would want a second opinion. But in the condition it's in you can't drive it and it will have to be towed.

well if you're downhill and keep your foot on the clutch and the transmission in neutral...you can coast quite a ways...you might be lucky...I'd have to see if yours is an 'interference' engine if it is....you can stlll hook it up~

to a horsie and use it as a trailer~

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Avalon

I did purchase the extended warranty at time of purchase, so I am hoping whatever they come up with is covered. If not, I have no choice but to have it towed somewhere else because that is a lot of money to drop at one time. They haven't given me a detailed report yet, the skilled mechanics were not there today. I definitely want to know what is costing so much. Thanks for your advice. I won't be driving it anywhere.

does this have the 2GR-FE engine?

Now as judge_roy stated if you engine is an interference engine then the price sounds better. With one of those engines if they jump time or timing belt/chain breaks or fails in any way you will have bent valves. And if that is what happened then the heads have to come off and have new valves installed and in some cases pistons get damaged. But hopefully that's not what you got wrong with it.

get this....from what I've read about the 2GR-FE is a 'slight' interference...really we will not know if it's a four valve per cylinder things get kinda 'Jinky' up there...if at low speed this probably will not be a problem...my own timing chain came loose and 'exploded' cracking the timing case...put 'er back together with a slightly limited oil pump and new parts and it works beautifully...even to this day...so there is life after destruction (if there was any)....take the time to take it all apart and see what got ruined~...or is just fine with a new chain...no one seems to know on the blogosphere for certain~ have faith in the TOYOTA...they'll not let you down~

Judge_roy.... I am not sure about the 2GR-FE. The only thing I know is what happened, and something about the timing chain, and the cost. Hopefully on Monday they will have more information for me. And that the adjuster/inspector who is coming to approve the repairs will approve them. Otherwise, I don't know what I'm gonna do. dandyoun they had a whole list of parts, I did see that, but wasn't sure what they were. I hope on Monday they will be ready to give me a copy of their diagnostics and repairs needed. They didn't want to say for sure Saturday, until the main mechanics looked at it. I have loved my Avalon and hope they can fix it. They put me in a Corolla and I most definitely can tell the difference. My Avalon rides much smoother w 88,000 miles than this Corolla with only 5 miles on it. You guys have been very helpful. I now have a list of questions to ask when I get to talk to the mechanic.

Glad we could give you a little insight. Don't give up on your toyota just yet. For the most part they are one of if not the most reliable vehicles on the road today. IMO. Hopefully this will be covered under your extended warranty.

The technical term is 'Tapered Squish' and is a very long explanation if you are not familiar with these engines. The 2GR FE is an Interference engine. If you REALLY want to learn about this engine download this pdf file, very dry and technical but at the same time if you want to learn: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102012_13.pdf

PS Smitty22 is right. The dealer is full of crap, dung, BS. Plain ol' shit. In the rare occasion the chain breaks the engine will NOT run. How can it run when the cam is not turning?

The 2014 Corolla is a POS. I test drove both a '13 and '14 I would not trade my 2006 for a 2013 or 2014 straight across no money involved. You ever see those Nationwide Insurance commercials with the baby? That is how I feel about my '06 Corolla. Granted it's not an Avalon, next step is Lexus,

Here is an update to what happened. A week later they called me and told me that it wasn't the timing chain, but it was the timing chain cover that rubbed the oil hose and caused it to burst. So they had to replace the hose and had to replace the timing chain cover. The extended warranty did cover the hose but would not cover the cover. I don't understand that because it wasn't normal wear and tear. I think it should have covered both.

Timing covers are NOT wear and tear items and Toyota is being it's usual self in stonewalling customers needs. Extended warranty or not, a $15.00 timing cover should be covered. It loosened for a reason, make sure they use tread locker on the cover bolts or you'll suffer the same fate. It's the principal, fight those Toyota SOB's. Good luck.

my 22RE engine self-destructed crackin' the timing case at the oil pump down there...it was raining...had no time to hustle up a replacement...and the oil pressure is STILL fine even with part of the aluminum cast piece missing a bit of it's real-estate~ Toyota's are the best, my friend...Top Gear tried to destroy a Toyota truck that would not die....these trucks have tenacity~

The products are good, the support is abysmal.

I really luv toyota a lot,God bless toyota companies.

If your a/c light is on and smells funny coming through the vents and you see white or gray smoke when you pop the hood than it's your a/c compressor. Either the clutch is bad or the compressor itself

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Your six-year-old econobox is starting to show a bit of wear and tear, but everything mechanical still works fine. Until it doesn't. Specifically, the engine suddenly goes dead silent one fine day. Your mechanic says your timing belt failed, then he chuckles into his shirt pocket. Now he gets to charge you for the tow, the belt replacement and a valve job, because there's no compression on two cylinders. You're one of the unfortunates with an 'interference engine' -- an engine that can leave one or more valves still propped open far enough to contact a piston when the belt parts. Sadly, sales brochures don't list whether an engine might suffer catastrophic damage if the belt goes.

You probably could have avoided this particular bit of unpleasantness with timely maintenance. It's best to replace the timing belt according to your carmaker's recommended schedule. For the record, many engines -- like those in more expensive models -- still use timing chains, rather than belts, like they did back in the day before the popularity of overhead camshafts. Unlike belts, timing chains usually don't have a routine replacement interval.

The timing belt (or chain) is the sole component that keeps the camshaft (make that camshafts on a DOHC or V-type OHC engine) and crankshaft in sync. So replacing this cogged reinforced-rubber belt at regular intervals -- generally every 60,000 miles unless the car manufacturer specifies longer -- is a lot less expensive and aggravating than having it break first. For your car's maintenance schedule, consult the owner's manual, alldata.com, or the belt manufacturer's poster hanging on the wall at your favorite parts store.

Slow but Steady

Though you'll spend only a few minutes replacing the timing belt itself, it can take an hour or more to dig down through the spaghetti of hoses, wiring and covers found in a modern engine bay. We even had to disconnect and cap a pair of fuel lines when we did the job on this VW 2.0-liter Four.

Study the procedure before digging in, either in a service manual or on the Web. On most transverse four-cylinder engines, you'll have to remove the passenger-side motor mount in order to gain access to the timing belt. This means the entire powertrain needs to be supported in that area while you're working. And finally, getting to the lower portion of multipiece timing belt covers usually requires underbody access. A fender cover doesn't hurt either, to protect the paint from your belt buckle and dropped tools.

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(2a) Find the timing marks on the flywheel and cam, and set them both to TDC.

(2b) The flywheel pulley TDC mark is accessible through a hole in the bellhousing.

(2c) The camshaft TDC is easy to find -- especially if you add white paint as we did.

Time and Time Again

We cannot stress this enough: Be careful! Make sure you know where the timing marks are on your engine, and that you have them set up properly with No. 1 cylinder at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke before attempting to replace the timing belt.

Why? 1) That interference engine thing again; and 2) Every camshaft and crankshaft on planet Earth is indexed to No. 1 TDC. If you try to remove and replace the timing belt with the engine in any other position, chances are good you'll throw things out of time. Then you'll get confused and have to pull off the valve cover as you try to determine when No. 1's valves are closed (which begins the compression stroke) in order to re-index the engine. Get your marks lined up right the first time.

After you remove the top section of the timing belt cover, you should see a timing mark on the camshaft sprocket -- this mark usually lines up with the edge of the cylinder head or valve cover. For the crankshaft below, there probably will be a timing mark on the damper pulley that lines up with another mark on the lower cover. Or, the service manual may direct you to the transmission end of the engine to look through a hole in the bellhousing for a timing mark on the flywheel. The flywheel is bolted to the other (transmission) end of the crankshaft. On some vehicles, you may find these marks in all three places.

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(4) The motor mount can now be removed temporarily.

Support and Tension

Of course, there are professional engine-support rigs available for purchase or rent. But as you can see in our photos, some lumber and an adjustable tiedown strap work just fine to support the powertrain while you remove that cumbersome motor mount. Once it's out of the way, though, you're almost home. Just remove the rest of the timing belt cover sections and turn your attention to the tensioner pulley mechanism.

This tensioner may be an automatic hydraulic type that you simply crank in one direction to remove the old timing belt. Or, you may have to loosen the tensioner pulley adjustment bolt to release the tension and the belt. Before proceeding, confirm which way the engine rotates during normal operation. (Pull the fuel pump relay or fuse first if you need to disconnect fuel lines the way we did. Don't ask how we found this out. We're still getting the gasoline smell out of our coveralls.) Knowing which way the engine turns is important for checking the new belt's alignment later; you don't want to be off by a tooth on one of the sprockets. The easiest way is to have a helper bump over the starter motor with the ignition key while you watch the engine. Of course, now you'll have to reset your timing marks by hand. Don't rotate the engine backward to the marks. Crank it around forward to maintain the correct tension and to keep the belt from jumping teeth.

TDC? Now you can carefully slide the old timing belt off its sprockets and pulleys, while trying to keep the camshaft and crankshaft from spinning. With all the timing marks lined up, route the new belt around the largest diameters first, leaving the smallest pulley or sprocket for last. It's tricky to slip the new, stiffer belt over that last one, but you'll get it after a couple of different wiggling, jiggling attempts. Now, make sure the timing marks are still lined up.

Warning: If you know you're working on an interference engine, do not rotate the camshaft or the crankshaft independently while the timing belt is off the engine. You could cause the pistons to hit the valves, or vice versa, and cause the same damage as if the timing belt had snapped with the engine running -- bent valves!

If you're working with a manual tensioner pulley setup, now is when you perform the factory procedure to tighten the new belt. A hydraulic tensioner takes care of this for you. Once the tension's set, place a socket on the big nut holding the front pulley on and use it to turn the engine over -- two complete crankshaft revolutions in the direction of normal rotation. Line up all the timing marks again. Everything still on the money? Then you've finished replacing the timing belt -- but you have another hour's work to reinstall the cam belt covers, any shrouding, and all the wires, engine accessories and hoses you moved or removed.

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(6) Slip the new belt into place without disturbing the cam or crank pulleys, or the engine will be out of time. Check by slowly rotating the crank two full turns with a socket on the crank snout.